Putting native breeds at the heart of your Christmas meal

Native breeds are genetically and culturally important, but they also provide delicious food for the festive period. Farmers Guardian explores how you can put them at the heart of Christmas celebrations.

Rare Breeds Survival Trust chief executive Christopher Price is understandably passionate about the UK’s native breeds and believes there is no better time than Christmas to take advantage of the food they provide.

He said: “The festive period is a wonderful opportunity to enjoy age-old traditions, show our appreciation for our families and communities, and consider the possibilities brought by the coming new year.

As we celebrate through the sharing of a feast, what better choice at Christmas than bringing both the highest quality, delicious food and also our national heritage to our tables, with produce from our native breeds.

Every household has their own special way of celebrating the festive period, but here are some chances to put native breeds, and all they stand for, at the heart of a traditional Christmas meal.”

Turkey

• Turkeys were originally indigenous to the New World, but were brought to the UK in the 1500s.
• There are 12 Turkey breeds which meet the criteria to be a UK native breed. All of these 12 native breeds are rare.
• It is believed that Turkey became increasingly popular on UK Christmas tables after Henry VIII swapped out his usual goose for a Norfolk Black turkey, and it became a Christmas staple later in Victorian times.

Native breed suggestion: Norfolk Black

• The Black turkey originated in Europe and is believed to have evolved from American turkeys.
• Farmers in East Anglia, most notably Norfolk, kept these domesticated birds for their fine meat and that is how the Norfolk Black turkey came to have its name.
• Norfolk Blacks take about six months to mature to slaughter and are renowned for the quality of their meat.
• A joint RBST-Nottingham Trent University project in 2020 found Norfolk Black turkey breast meat was more tender than commercial turkey breast meat.
• In terms of commercial and welfare benefits, the study also found that native breed turkeys have stronger leg bones than commercial strains of turkey within the study.
• The breed is in the ‘Priority’ on the RBST Watchlist

Goose

• Goose is seen by many as the more traditional and luxury choice for the Christmas roast.
• Roast goose meat is darker, rich and full of flavour.
• For centuries, there were multiple benefits for smallholders or communities of keeping geese. They could make good use of their eggs, feathers, down and quills, find medicinal uses for its fat, and also eat their meat

Native Breed Suggestion: West of England goose

• The West of England breed is an ancient one, which became standardised in 1999.
• Similar birds were once common in farmyards throughout the UK and particularly in the West Country.
• Adult males are white, but may have the odd grey feather, and females have a saddleback grey and white pattern, with grey on the head and neck.
• Although only a medium-sized breed, the breed produces good meat birds that grow quickly.
• The distinctive feature of this breed is that it is autosexing - not only are the adult male and female distinct, but it is possible to sex goslings at hatch, or even after pipping, as the females have grey patches on the beak rather than the plain pale orange of the male. For many, this is a major advantage, as otherwise, geese are notoriously difficult to sex.
• The breed is a ‘Priority’ on the RBST Watchlist.

Ham

• Ham has been used in Britain as a feast food since Roman times and has long been a stalwart of the Christmas period. Different versions of a Christmas ham are often served during Yule period across Northern Europe

Breed Suggestions: Welsh Pig

• A fantastic all-rounder that is known for its hardiness and ability to thrive under a wide variety of conditions, both indoors and out.
• The Modern Welsh Pig can be traced back to an indigenous, white lop-eared breed kept in Wales for as long as records exist.
• Pigs grow quickly and carcases grade well for the commercial market.
• It provides a leaner meat than some other native pig breeds, but still benefits from intra-muscular fat, which means that the meat is both succulent and flavoursome.
• The breed is categorised as ‘At Risk’ on the RBST Watchlist.

Sausages and bacon for pigs-in-blankets

• A more recent addition to UK Christmas lunch, becoming popular in the late 20^thcentury, this has fast become a staple side dish. Not to be confused with American pigs-in-blankets, which is a small hot dog wrapped in pastry.

Breed Suggestions: Gloucestershire Old Spot

• The Gloucestershire Old Spot breed originated on the southern shore of the River Severn and was frequently kept in orchards.
• The breed has low numbers but is becoming increasingly popular due to its reputation for high quality meat production. A great dual purpose breed, suitable for pork or bacon production.
• The Gloucestershire Old Spot was the first breed of any species in the world to be accorded Traditional Speciality Guaranteed status by the EU Commission in recognition of the special qualities of its meat
• ‘At Risk’ on the RBST Watchlist.

Cheese

1. The tradition of eating cheese with Christmas cake is thought to have originated in Yorkshire in Victorian times
2. Christmas cheeseboards are also a popular modern festive food.

Cheese / native breed suggestions:

1. Stone beck Wensleydale (Northern Dairy Shorthorn cows)

• The tradition of Wensleydale cheesemaking dates back to the arrival of Cistercian monks in North Yorkshire in the 1100s
• The milk for Stonebeck Wensleydale cheese comes from a herd of Northern Dairy Shorthorn cows and is handcrafted in Nidderdale, North Yorkshire
• The Northern Dairy Shorthorn evolved as a dual-purpose breed in the Pennines and the adjacent areas of Durham and Westmorland
• It was developed specifically for upland farming
• Now very rare, it is categorised as a Priority breed on the RBST Watchlist

2. Single or Double Gloucester cheese (Gloucester cows)

• The Gloucester is an ancient breed that has been common in the Severn Valley area since the 13th century.
• They were originally a tri-purpose breed, valued for their milk, beef and as draught oxen.
• Gloucester cheese is a traditional, semi-hard cheese which has been made in Gloucestershire, since the 16th century.
• There are two types of Gloucester cheese: Single and Double. Single Gloucester is more crumbly, lighter in texture and lower in fat. Double Gloucester has a stronger and more savoury flavour, and is slightly firmer. Both types are produced in round shapes.
• Single Gloucester Cheese has an EU PDO meaning that it can legally only be made with milk from Gloucester cows.